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5.03.2013

Steak Tartare

My second "real job" (not including baby-sitting or cleaning my neighbor's house, but after being a "sandwich artist" at the local Subway) was busing tables at the Hotel Sofitel in Bloomington. I filled in at two of the three restaurants, and piled plates high on my tray and occasionally dropped them all. I learned about all kinds of french food while working there, including bouillabaise and coq au vin. I also learned about steak tartare, which I assumed was extremely fancy because it was one of the priciest items on the menu. I was fascinated by how it was served - all the ingredients looked so pretty, but also so strange to think of eating raw meat with raw egg yolk.

I have eaten raw beef before - sliced thinly and dipped in butter, but up until last weekend had not tried, or even thought much about steak tartare. But then I had some, and it was really good, and now I can't wait to try a bunch of different raw beef dishes from different cuisine traditions. Sally Fallon's Nourishing Traditions includes several, and she also writes a bunch in the margins about the possible health benefits of raw versus cooked meat.

Anyhow - it's a fun way to eat something familiar and have it taste totally different. Tartare is almost pate like, but more fresh and less creamy. I used Sally Fallon's recipe (which I am writing below, though I didn't have everything so mine was modified a bit). The big thing with raw meat is that it needs to be frozen for at least 14 days so that you can safely eat it. Any bacteria will be killed in that amount of time. So - if you buy some fresh meat, make sure it is grass fed and finished and from a farm you know, and freeze it for 2 weeks before you eat it! I used some of the venison burger I helped grind last fall, but you could also use nicer cuts of meat. Hilltop Family Farms at the Midtown Farmer's Market (starts tomorrow!) sells a "Gourmet burger" that uses the whole animal for the burger, not just left over bits - it would be a good tartare option. I read something that said the flavor of raw beef in tartare is superior when you mince the meat by hand (use a sharp knife on slightly still frozen meat) as opposed to grind/food process, so that might be worth an experiment!

Steak Tartare
1 pound ground sirloin or filet, frozen 14 days and thawed, ground or minced
1 medium onion, finely minced
1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped (I used fresh chives from the garden instead)
3 tablespoons Dijon-type mustard
2 egg yolks
sea salt, pepper and cayenne pepper (to taste)
1 cup small capers, drained, rinsed and dried (I didn't have those)

If you want to go the fancy Hotel Sofitel way, you can serve everything as is, without being mixed yet but in divided portions (I'd just go with extra egg yolks in that case - it will only make it more creamy). Otherwise, mix everything together and divide to serve. This stuff is on the rich side, so a pound of meat will likely yield 4 servings.

I ate mine with hard boiled eggs and sauerkraut, but it would be good with salad greens, almond crackers, fried taro (the Sofitel served it with a big side of pommes frites), or pretty much anything!

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