I've cured salmon for gravlax before, but so far had not tried any other meat curing endeavors. Til this basturma! It turned out great - especially when I am able to slice the meat super thinly (think proscuitto). When I don't, it is a little chewy, but still really lovely in flavor and texture. I like the spice mix decently, and I feel curious to play around a little. My research shows that basturma is popular in the middle east and the mediterranean, as well as Armenia/Turkey/Russia. And that it is good on its own, or to fry a few slices with eggs for breakfast (really good). Yum.
I have had my eye on this Armenian cured meat recipe all winter, and so finally on my recent quarterly farm delivery I ordered a 4 pound eye of round roast. The Saveur recipe and step by step instructions were very useful, to which I add just one main modification: to not take the meat down from its hanging place to slather on the seasoning mix, and instead apply it while hanging - WAY easier! The Saveur link goes into detail about spices and meat cuts (best to get fresh spices if you can, use a lean cut). *I did order fancy blue fenugreek from Georgia, which was not cheap, at about $10 for just under 2 oz, which was right about half a cup.
This was really fun to make - fairly easy, but I had to put reminders on my calendar. And it was an interesting experience to determine when I thought the meat was "ripe-avocado-feeling." There is a bit of range for that particular texture, even though I find it a pretty good descriptor. I called that stage done at 12 days, and my basement probably ranged from 45-60 degree (that is my guess anyway, I don't have a thermometer down there).
My favorite part was the spreading of the spice mixture, again, way better to do while hanging. I did not do that initially, and then you have to stand the meat on end, and lay it down, and each time you do, it gets marred and some spice mix clumps off. Whereas when it is hanging you can smooth it out with no interference. The spice consistency (Benjamin Kemper of Saveur called it "thick pancake batter") holds its shape pretty well and is really satisfying - kind of like thick buttercream that you spread with your fingers. It will make your basement smell like fenugreek and paprika.
Yield: makes 3 lbs 8 oz
Time:
11-18 days, depending on the temperature
For the meat:
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4 lb. eye of round beef roast
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1 lb. kosher salt
For the seasoning:
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1⁄2 cup ground fenugreek (preferably blue fenugreek)
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1⁄2 cup sweet paprika
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1 tbsp. ground allspice
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1 tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
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2 tsp. cayenne pepper
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2 tsp. ground cumin
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1 tsp. kosher salt
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8 large garlic cloves
Instructions
Part 1: Cure the Meat (3 Days)
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Cut the eye of round roast in half crosswise (against the grain) so
that it is easier to handle. Each piece should be about 2 inches thick.
Using a skewer, poke the pieces all over so that the salt can penetrate
the meat. Spread a thick layer of salt in a 9- by 13-inch roasting pan
and place the meat on top. Coat all sides of both pieces with more salt
so that the meat is barely visible. Cover and refrigerate for 2 days.
(After 2 days, the salt will have drawn out a lot of liquid from the
meat.)
- Fill a large bowl with cold water. Drain the meat and rinse off the
salt. Submerge the meat in the cold water for at least 1 hour or up to 3
hours. (This will draw out any excess salt.)
- Remove the meat from the water and thoroughly dry each piece with
paper towels, pressing down to remove as much moisture as possible. Wrap
the meat completely in dry paper towels and place on a large, rimmed
baking sheet. Place a second large baking sheet on top of the meat, then
weigh down the top pan with a few 28-oz. cans of tomatoes or something
similar in weight. Refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight
Part 2: Hang the Meat (5-10 Days)
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Find a place to hang the meat as it cures, preferably in a clean room
that never exceeds 70°F, with some airflow. Next, uncover the meat and
remove and discard the paper towels. The beef should be flat and
slightly firm to the touch. With a skewer, pierce each piece about 1
inch from one end. Tie a piece of butcher’s twine in a knot on one end
of the skewer and, leaving the other end of the twine long enough to
hang the meat from the desired spot, thread it through the hole in the
first piece of beef. Repeat with a second length of twine and the other
piece of beef. Hang the meat up by the string and allow it to air-dry
for 5–10 days, or until the pieces of beef feel as firm as a nearly-ripe
avocado. (Alternatively, hang the meat in the refrigerator for 8 to 14
days. You may place a rimmed baking sheet underneath, though the meat
should be dry from the cure and no longer dripping.)
Part 3: Add the Chemen Seasoning Mix (3-5 Days)
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Take the meat down, leaving the string in place, and transfer it to a large, clean baking sheet. Set aside.
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In a medium bowl, mix together the fenugreek, paprika, allspice, black
pepper, cayenne, cumin, and salt. In a small food processor, puree the
garlic with ½ cup cold water. Add the garlic puree to the bowl of spices
and mix thoroughly. Pour in an additional ½ cup cold water, or more as
needed, until the mixture resembles thick pancake batter. Smear the
spice mixture all over the meat in a thin (about ⅛ of an inch), even
layer. Rehang the meat for 2–3 more days (3–5 days in the fridge), or
until the spice mixture is firm and dry to the touch. At this point, the
basturma is ready to eat. To serve, slice as thinly as possible against
the grain with a sharp knife. Store the basturma wrapped tightly in
plastic wrap in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.